Table – 1st Try of Ingredient-based Cuisine

。Table – 初嚐淨化海鮮。

在網上看到柏廷坊的Table – 淨化海鮮有生蠔之夜,這夜便來了一試。第一次品嚐淨化海鮮,原來歐洲已運用這技術一段時間,由外國運來的海鮮會先存放於自家工場,用約七十二小時淨化,讓海鮮排出體肉廢物,回復新鮮。餐廳的菜式是以食材為基調,沒有特定食材的來源地,而這夜,我便食到了來自南北半球的新鮮生蠔。

Heard about the Oyster Night at Table – Ingredient-based Cuisine located at the Pemberton and ready to give it a try. It was my first try of  depurated seafood. The technology was well developed in Europe for quite a long while. Seafood would be placed in the purification tanks for around 72 hours before the seafood is delivered to the restaurants. It reminds the freshness and cleanliness of the seafood. And therefore,  the restaurant doesn’t serve seafood from one specific location but would be based on the freshness of the ingredients.

Oysters - Australia (left) & Ireland (right)
Oysters – New Zealand (left) & Ireland (right)

南半球生蠔季節已過了一半, 蠔身仍然肥美,但鮮甜味已開始減弱。相反北半球的生蠔開始成熟,雖然蠔身較瘦,但清甜的味道新鮮得可與南半球的蠔比擬。如果喜歡肥美濃厚的生蠔,便要快快趕來吃了。

Was so lucky to catch the oyster season of South Hemisphere.The oysters from New Zealand were so plump and juicy. The sweetness was not as great as the oysters from Ireland, thought they were relatively lean.

Pan-fried Razor Fish
Pan-fried Razor Fish

香煎蟶子配蕃茄醬,大廚解釋煮法非常簡單,以燒紅的鑊香煎蟶子,短時間便起鑊,以免過熟。蕃茄蓉帶有少許香口,再配上松子,新鮮得來,更帶出蟶子的鮮甜味。

Pan-fried Razor Fish with tomato sauce. Chef explained that she only used the simplest way to handle the razor fish. To avoid being overcooked and remind the juiciness, just heat the pan and pan-fry it for  very short time. The tomato sauce and pine nuts brought out the sweetness of the razor fish.

Scampi a la Plancha, squid ink aioli
Scampi a la Plancha, squid ink aioli

香煎小龍蝦配墨魚汁。跟蟶子採用相同的煮法,務求讓海鮮剛好煮熟而不失鮮美,小龍蝦仍保存濕潤,再配上墨魚汁,是意想不到的「鮮」。

Scampi a la Plancha with squid ink aioli. By using the same method to cook the razor fish, the scampi was cooked into perfected since the juicy was all reminded. With the squid ink aioli, it’s quite an inspiring combination.

Uni, hand-made egg noodle
Uni, hand-made egg noodle(pasta)

據聞店主的鮮製意粉也十分出色,所以也安排了一道海膽手製意粉作主食。意粉有咬口,入口煙韌,是甚理想的硬度。以海膽汁快炒,再放上海膽,旁邊黃色的是什麼?檸檬皮是也。廚師解釋,因此菜式澱粉質比較重,而且檸檬皮除提鮮外,也可消滯。著實如此,檸檬皮令整道意粉更清新,讓你不禁把意粉食光。

Heard that chef made pretty nice hand-made egg noodles, so we arranged  Uni, hand-made egg noodle as one of the main course. Seems ‘hand-made pasta’ would be a better choice of word.  The pasta was cooked to desirable hardness, a bit chewy. Used some uni sauce to stir-fry the noodles and put the uni on top. Such a beautiful presentation. What are those tiny little yellow bite around the pasta? Lemon peel it is. Since the dish was full of carb, a little bit of lemon peel would help to ease the heaviness and bring out the freshness.

Wagyu beef cheek, truffled wild mushroom, potato mash
Wagyu beef cheek, truffled wild mushroom, potato mash

慢煮和牛臉頰配薯蓉。廚師事先已慢煮和牛臉頰,讓其膠質發揮出來,又非常入味,絕對是骨膠原進補之選。醬汁香濃,剛好與淡淡的薯蓉平衡。頂層的芫茜真的讓人又愛又恨,香口得很,但又重味的很。

Wagyu beef cheek, truffled wild mushroom, potato mash. A dish full of collagen. The beef cheek was slow-cooked to a very tender texture and the flavour was very rich, which gave a great balance to the potato mash. The parsley and onions on top were so fresh, but the taste was quite heavy as well.

Basil and coconut ice-cream and crumble
Coconut Basil Sorbet, Chocolate, Coffee Sponge, Parmesan, Crumble

西餐當然最好有甜品作結,羅勒椰子雪糕配上咖啡蛋糕和碎餅,創新的配搭。真的從未食過羅勒雪糕,整道甜品甜度不高,以鮮味及香口取勝,羅勒十分清新,而碎餅及芝士少許咸香,更帶出雪糕的清香。

Of course  this wonderful dinner could only be completed by a lovely dessert. Coconut Basil Sorbet, Chocolate, Coffee Sponge, Parmesan, Crumble. It was not a normal dessert that you may expect to have a sweet ending of the dinner, but it’s definitely an inspiring combination of sweetness and saltiness. The coconut basil sorbet was really one of its kind and  far beyond my expectation.

餐廳性價偏高,如大家喜歡海鮮,又想有個寧靜環境,或者你希望廚師可以幫你安排整個菜單,這裡是個不錯的選擇。午晚市也有套餐選擇,有預算的,也不妨試試。

The price perhaps is a bit high. If you love seafood and want a quiet dining atmosphere, or you prefer the chef to tailor make a menu for you, Table is a nice choice for you. They also serve lunch set and dinner set. Worth for a try.

 

Table
Address: 8/F, the Pemberton, 22-26 Bonham Strand East, Sheung Wan
Opening Hours: Mondays – Saturdays 11.30-14.30, 18.00-23.00

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