。Atelier Vivanda – 食出巴黎總店的風味。
Akrame, the Michelin one-star chef, has brought his french bistro Atelier Vivanda to Hong Kong and had it located next to its Michelin-starred restaurant on Ship Street, Wanchai. The Black Angus beef and Pommes Dauphines gave me some good memories when I visited the main branch in Paris. I just couldn’t stop eating the Pommes Dauphines. Here I am with my colleagues at the new HK shop to try their lunch set and some signature items.
To begin the lunch, we had the thinly sliced smoked beef matured 50 days. Pairing with the homemade olive oil, which has strong pepper flavour, the smoky taste of beef has even more stood out. The olive oil has a beautiful golden colour that is different from the usual olive oil.
Following with three appetizers, Duck Leg Terrine with vinegar and onions has a different texture from the pork terrine we had usually. It is even more chewy and carries layer of texture due to the cabbage and the onions. Refreshing and not grease at all. Besides, Risotto with Beetroot and Smoked Haddock is a healthy option on the menu with attractive presentation. The risotto is actually made with orzo. With a little of seasoning, you can taste the sweetness of the beetroot and smoky flavour of the haddock. Veal Carpaccio with Passion Fruit and Coffee Emulsion has given us the original taste of veal, but would be more outstanding if the passion fruit flavour is stronger.
午市主菜可選Le Croquavor牛肉漢堡或是肉類，人多總是可以選不同的，點上了黑安格斯牛腹肉，黑毛豬助骨和Le Croquavor試試。餐廳將重點落在肉類，樸寶的賣相，讓食材原始的賣相都顯露出來，而且調味已一早處理好，根本不用再另加調味。黑安格斯牛腹肉燒得剛好，紋理分明，侍者親身來教授正確的切法，沿著紋理來切條，便能享受牛腹肉的應有質感。少了一分脂香，但卻有富肉汁的踏實，配上Rouge 香醇的紅酒雞尾酒，更可平衡肉類的膩。
For the main course of lunch set, you may select from Le Croquavor (French beef burger) or other types of meat, so we have tried Black Angus Flank, Iberian pork rib, and of course, Le Croquavor. All the presentation is simple with wooden plate to let the focus on the meat. Seasoning has been done perfectly before serving. Black Angus flank was cooked to medium rare. When the server cut it, the juice and pink texture looked just lovely. It is tender and relatively thin than steak. Firm and even sweeter when you enjoy it with Rouge the sharing wine.
Iberian pork rib is another signature item highly recommended. The portion of the fat and meat is around 1:4. Meat is so tender and smooth, while the fat brings richer flavour to the whole dish.
Le Croquavor arrived in a big portion with sprinkle of cheese. Look so tempting. Bread is crispy and the beef was beautifully cooked to medium rare. Juice is well kept in the beef. Pairing with French Gribiche mayonnaise, it just tastes even better. Do enjoy it once it is served. Don’t wait!
If you are a potato lover, then you’d love Atelier Vivanda. You would find a series of potato dishes and it is not just “potato”. You may find it even more fascinating than the main course. Crispy Pommes Dauphines, cheesy Pommes Dauphin, creamy Grain Dauphinois, smooth mashed potatoes and tasty sautéed potatoes. Choose the one you prefer and pair it with your main course.
Okay, how would I miss the dessert? There are 4 desserts on the menu and here are the best two I would recommend. Caramel Profitoclarie with chocolate tonka is filled with caramel ice cream and covered with caramel and walnut. The eclair was so soft and matched perfectly with the ice cream. It melt so fast though. Take your shoot and just dig in! Besides, the traditional Moelleux 100% chocolate with green citrus was a true surprise. The cake is so soft and moist that the chocolate runs like a fountain when we cut it. Impressive.
The taste and experience were so similar with the main branch in Paris. Now they serve La Viande (main) and unlimited servings of L’Accompagnement at only HK$ 298. For dinner, it is only HK$488 with entree, main, side and dessert. Very reasonable price with good quality of food!
Address: Shop 9A, Ship Street, Wanchai
Opening Hours: Mondays to Sundays 12.00-15.00, 18.00-23.30