。Atelier Vivanda – 食出巴黎總店的風味。
灣仔船街真的是卧虎藏龍，在Akrame取得米芝蓮一星之後，今年在鄰舖再開設小酒個館Atelier Vivanda，令船街再多一個新選擇。早前在巴黎旅行時也趁小空檔到訪巴黎總店，食過黑安格斯西冷牛扒和炸馬鈴薯球，當時已對其馬鈴薯球有很深印象。今次在香港的新店和同事們一行多人，更可試試更多招牌菜。
Akrame, the Michelin one-star chef, has brought his french bistro Atelier Vivanda to Hong Kong and had it located next to its Michelin-starred restaurant on Ship Street, Wanchai. The Black Angus beef and Pommes Dauphines gave me some good memories when I visited the main branch in Paris. I just couldn’t stop eating the Pommes Dauphines. Here I am with my colleagues at the new HK shop to try their lunch set and some signature items.
先一讚前菜煙燻薄牛肉片，以熟成五十天的牛肉煙燻，捲起來配上自家製的橄欖油，味道更香，煙燻味更重。橄欖油顏色很美，呈金黃色，帶濃郁胡椒味道，十分特別，印象深刻。
To begin the lunch, we had the thinly sliced smoked beef matured 50 days. Pairing with the homemade olive oil, which has strong pepper flavour, the smoky taste of beef has even more stood out. The olive oil has a beautiful golden colour that is different from the usual olive oil.
接著的三式前菜，各有特色。法式鴨腿批配甜醋香蔥和平常食到的肉批有所不同，相當有咬口，以椰菜包著腿肉和香蔥，清爽而不油膩。意大利「飯」配紅菜頭煙燻黑鱈魚，鮮紅的賣相相當吸引，食下去才發現原來是米形粉，難怪這麼飽滿，走健康路線的亦較少調味，主要取天然食材鮮味。而咖啡百香果牛仔肉片以薄切形式出現，如百香果再多一點便更醒胃了。
Following with three appetizers, Duck Leg Terrine with vinegar and onions has a different texture from the pork terrine we had usually. It is even more chewy and carries layer of texture due to the cabbage and the onions. Refreshing and not grease at all. Besides, Risotto with Beetroot and Smoked Haddock is a healthy option on the menu with attractive presentation. The risotto is actually made with orzo. With a little of seasoning, you can taste the sweetness of the beetroot and smoky flavour of the haddock. Veal Carpaccio with Passion Fruit and Coffee Emulsion has given us the original taste of veal, but would be more outstanding if the passion fruit flavour is stronger.
午市主菜可選Le Croquavor牛肉漢堡或是肉類，人多總是可以選不同的，點上了黑安格斯牛腹肉，黑毛豬助骨和Le Croquavor試試。餐廳將重點落在肉類，樸寶的賣相，讓食材原始的賣相都顯露出來，而且調味已一早處理好，根本不用再另加調味。黑安格斯牛腹肉燒得剛好，紋理分明，侍者親身來教授正確的切法，沿著紋理來切條，便能享受牛腹肉的應有質感。少了一分脂香，但卻有富肉汁的踏實，配上Rouge 香醇的紅酒雞尾酒，更可平衡肉類的膩。
For the main course of lunch set, you may select from Le Croquavor (French beef burger) or other types of meat, so we have tried Black Angus Flank, Iberian pork rib, and of course, Le Croquavor. All the presentation is simple with wooden plate to let the focus on the meat. Seasoning has been done perfectly before serving. Black Angus flank was cooked to medium rare. When the server cut it, the juice and pink texture looked just lovely. It is tender and relatively thin than steak. Firm and even sweeter when you enjoy it with Rouge the sharing wine.
黑毛豬助骨十分出色，脂肪和肉的比例約是1:4，肉質也更嫩滑，亦食出了脂肪的甘香，是牛肉以外的必試之選。
Iberian pork rib is another signature item highly recommended. The portion of the fat and meat is around 1:4. Meat is so tender and smooth, while the fat brings richer flavour to the whole dish.
而Le Croquavor賣相很有份量，而且灑滿芝士，讓有人大口咬的衝動。麵包香脆，牛肉燒至四成熟，肉汁剛好鎖在內，而且加上傳統法式Gribiche蛋黃醬，更加美味，上菜後要趁熱食才最美味。
Le Croquavor arrived in a big portion with sprinkle of cheese. Look so tempting. Bread is crispy and the beef was beautifully cooked to medium rare. Juice is well kept in the beef. Pairing with French Gribiche mayonnaise, it just tastes even better. Do enjoy it once it is served. Don’t wait!
主菜介紹了，但配菜也不能忽略。這裡的馬鈴薯，可不是配角那麼簡單，或者比主菜更吸引到你。香脆可口的炸馬鈴薯球、濃香惹味的馬鈴薯絲餅、經典又幼滑的法式焗馬鈴薯蓉、爽口又有忌廉香的法式烤焗馬鈴薯，每款都吸引著不同的食客。
If you are a potato lover, then you’d love Atelier Vivanda. You would find a series of potato dishes and it is not just “potato”. You may find it even more fascinating than the main course. Crispy Pommes Dauphines, cheesy Pommes Dauphin, creamy Grain Dauphinois, smooth mashed potatoes and tasty sautéed potatoes. Choose the one you prefer and pair it with your main course.
甜品也十分精彩，一口氣點上了餐牌上的所有選擇，向大家推介最喜歡的兩款。（胃口小的便照推介食吧。) 陵香豆朱古力焦糖長泡芙，淋上了合桃和焦糖，泡芙的鬆軟和焦糖雪糕的幼滑很相配，但雪糕溶得快，建議影相要快手。而朱古力心太軟配青檸汁很有驚喜，切開的那刻，朱古力如泉湧，有點震撼，而且蛋糕的鬆軟也十分少見，甚有水準的一個甜品。
Okay, how would I miss the dessert? There are 4 desserts on the menu and here are the best two I would recommend. Caramel Profitoclarie with chocolate tonka is filled with caramel ice cream and covered with caramel and walnut. The eclair was so soft and matched perfectly with the ice cream. It melt so fast though. Take your shoot and just dig in! Besides, the traditional Moelleux 100% chocolate with green citrus was a true surprise. The cake is so soft and moist that the chocolate runs like a fountain when we cut it. Impressive.
和在巴黎總店食到的味道真的很接近，現在午市已供應主菜＋馬鈴薯配菜的套餐，只需$298，而晚市亦有套餐，包括前菜、主菜、馬鈴薯配菜和甜品，也只是$448，實在物超所值。
The taste and experience were so similar with the main branch in Paris. Now they serve La Viande (main) and unlimited servings of L’Accompagnement at only HK$ 298. For dinner, it is only HK$488 with entree, main, side and dessert. Very reasonable price with good quality of food!
Atelier Vivanda
Address: Shop 9A, Ship Street, Wanchai
Opening Hours: Mondays to Sundays 12.00-15.00, 18.00-23.30
